Imitation Chanel handbags come in many forms. Some are crafted so meticulously that only a trained eye can distinguish between an authentic Chanel bag and a replica. These world-renowned luxury purses can cost anywhere from $2,100 to as much as $260,000—enough to buy a house in some areas! Imagine spending thousands on a coveted Chanel bag, like the timeless 2.55, only to discover it’s a fake. That would be devastating.
If you’re in the market for a Chanel bag and want to avoid buying a counterfeit, here’s a guide to help you determine whether your bag is genuine or a high-quality imitation. It’s worth the time to examine the details so you don’t end up wasting your money on a fake.
The Leather
The leather is the first thing to examine. Authentic Chanel bags use lambskin or caviar leather. Lambskin is exceptionally soft, smooth, and velvety with a rich sheen. Even if you’ve never touched lambskin before, you’ll immediately recognize its premium quality. If your bag feels smooth but not soft to the touch, you should be wary.
Caviar leather, made from calfskin, has a textured and more durable finish compared to lambskin. Fans of Chanel often prefer the pebbled texture of caviar leather. If you run your hand over an authentic caviar leather Chanel bag, you’ll feel the raised dimples.
Lining
Chanel bags don’t just boast high-quality leather on the outside—the lining is just as luxurious. Authentic Chanel flap bags have taut, perfectly fitted linings. When you touch it, the leather should feel seamless and expensive. If the lining is wrinkled, creased, or loose, you’ve likely been duped. Over time, fake linings may pull away or loosen, further confirming the bag’s inauthenticity.
Stitch Count
Chanel bags feature a high stitch count to maintain the smoothness of their iconic quilting. Check the number of stitches in the quilting panels or diamond outlines. Authentic bags have 8 to 12 stitches per side of each diamond. Modern Chanel bags have at least 9 stitches, while vintage models have 8. If you count fewer than 8 stitches per side, it’s a fake, as lower stitch counts result in puffier quilts.
Quilting
The quilted pattern on Chanel bags should be perfectly aligned, even when the flap is closed or around the outer pocket. While old leather may stretch over time, causing slight misalignment in vintage bags, a brand-new Chanel bag should have a consistent, flawless quilted pattern. If it doesn’t, you’re likely looking at an imitation.
CC Lock
The interlocking CC logo is iconic to Chanel. But counterfeiters often use this logo to fool buyers. In genuine Chanel bags, the right C overlaps the left C at the top, while the left C overlaps the right at the bottom. The CC lock should be symmetrical, with flat ends and slightly softened edges. Fake logos tend to have sharper, squared-off edges.
Additionally, if your bag says it was made in France, there should be three hallmark lines on the top of the left “C.” If these lines are present but the bag says “Made in Paris,” it’s a fake. Chanel bags are labeled by country, not city.
Back of the Lock
The back of the lock features a gold rectangular plate secured by two gold screws. Chanel uses custom flathead or star-shaped screws, which can’t be removed with standard tools. If your bag has Phillips-head screws, that’s a red flag.
Also, examine the “Chanel” and “France” engravings on the backplate. The text should be evenly spaced, clear, and consistent. On authentic bags, “Chanel” is positioned at the top and “France” at the bottom, which will be reversed on fakes.
Chain Straps
An authentic Chanel chain strap will feel heavy, with gold or silver metal that’s smooth and free of dents. The leather woven into the chain should appear hand-stitched, not machine-stitched, except in the case of the jumbo flap bag, where the leather is folded four times. Lightweight chains or straps that are scratched or poorly stitched are red flags.
Authenticity Card
The authenticity card that comes with a genuine Chanel bag has 6 to 8 embossed digits that match the serial number on the sticker inside the bag. The card should have clean edges, and the gold border should be crisp and resistant to scratching. Fake cards often feel cheap, like cardboard, while authentic cards are weighty, similar to plastic.
Brand Stamp
The brand stamp on an authentic Chanel bag should match the color of the hardware. If your hardware is gold but the stamp is silver, or vice versa, it’s likely a replica.
Dust Bag
Chanel dust bags have also evolved. Since the 2000s, they are black with a white “Chanel” logo centered on the bag. Older models from the ‘80s and ‘90s came in white dust bags. The material should feel like hard cotton, and poorly made dust bags with off-white logos or thin fonts are another warning sign.
It Should Stand
When empty, a genuine Chanel bag should be able to stand upright on its own. If it falls over easily, it’s a cause for suspicion.
Frequently Asked Questions:
• Do all Chanel bags have serial numbers? Chanel began using serial numbers in 1984.
• How can you tell how old a Chanel bag is? The number of digits in the serial number can indicate the bag’s age. Seven digits mean the bag was made between 1986 and 2005. Eight digits point to a bag made from 2005 onward. You can look up the serial number’s first few digits online to determine the exact year.
Know the Difference
There are many high-quality fake Chanel bags on the market, but even the best fakes make mistakes. Whether it’s in the hardware, the leather, or the authenticity card, these small errors reveal that the bag is not the genuine, luxurious piece Chanel is famous for.
Want to know about how to maintain and store your luxury bag? Check out this post!
And if you’re ready to buy a Chanel bag, take a look at our selection of preowned Chanel bags or our entire selection of bags!
