Most Iconic "IT Bags": History, Design and Impact

Louis Vuitton handbags in various colors

An "It bag" refers to a luxury designer handbag that has gained widespread popularity and commercial success. The term originated in the 1990s as the handbag market experienced rapid expansion within the fashion industry. Designers crafted distinctive, singular designs, often endorsed by the fashion press or celebrities, cementing their status as iconic pieces.

These timeless accessories have maintained their allure and relevance since their inception. Their enduring appeal is attributed to their stylish durability and increasing value over time, making them worthy investments. As any fashion enthusiast knows, a statement handbag has the transformative power to elevate even the simplest ensemble.

 

BAMBOO BAG by GUCCI

Gucci Bamboo 1947 Top Handle Bag Leather Small - Preowned
                    Shop: Gucci Bamboo 1947 Small Top Handle - $3,206
 

Date: 1947

Designer: Guccio Gucci

Introduction: The bamboo handle design, continuously reimagined, has become one of Gucci’s most iconic creations. Adored by stars like Lady Diana, Elizabeth Taylor, Carla Bruni, Beyoncé, and Rosie Huntington-Whitely, the Bamboo Bag was revitalized in 2010/2011 by Frida Giannini in celebration of Gucci's 90th anniversary. This update, dubbed the "New Bamboo," gave the classic piece a contemporary edge.

Backstory: Born from a post-war leather shortage, Gucci innovated by incorporating bamboo into their designs, a material that not only conserved leather but also became a hallmark of the brand.

 

SPEEDY by LOUIS VUITTON

 

Date: Originally crafted in 1930, scaled down in 1965

Designer: Georges Vuitton

Introduction: Conceived in 1932 as Vuitton expanded beyond luggage into fashion, the Speedy was designed as a smaller counterpart to the Keepall, ideal for short trips.

Backstory: The bag was crafted specifically for film star Audrey Hepburn, who requested a day bag version of Vuitton’s large Keepall, thus giving birth to the Speedy.

 

KELLY by HERMÈS

 

Date: Introduced 1935, renamed 1956

Designer: Robert Dumas, Emile-Maurice Hermès, and Ettore Bugatti

Introduction: Renamed in honor of Grace Kelly, who famously carried it to shield her pregnancy from paparazzi, the Kelly bag’s status was solidified by its use in Alfred Hitchcock’s *To Catch a Thief*.

Backstory: Initially designed to carry a saddle in 1892, the Kelly evolved by 1923 to fit perfectly in a car door, embodying modernism with its trapezoid shape, side straps, and bold silhouette.

 

2.55 by CHANEL

 

Date: February 1955, revived in 2005

Designer: Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld

Introduction: The 2.55, named for its date of creation, revolutionized handbags with its quilted design and shoulder straps—a first for women at the time.

Backstory: The quilting was inspired by jackets worn by jockeys, and the shoulder straps were a functional innovation that allowed women to carry bags hands-free.

 

JACKIE by GUCCI

Date: Designed in 1950, relaunched in 1999 and 2009

Designer: Relaunched by Tom Ford and later Frida Giannin

Introduction: Named after Jackie Kennedy, who was often seen with the bag at formal events.

Backstory: Initially designed as a unisex bag called the Fifties Constance, the bag became synonymous with timeless style, admired for its hobo shape.

 

BIRKIN by HERMÈS

Shop: Hermes Birkin 30 Handbag$20,977

Date: 1984

Designer: Jean-Louis Dumas

Introduction: Named after Jane Birkin, who desired a spacious, practical bag for her everyday use.

Backstory: The Birkin emerged from a chance encounter between Birkin and Dumas on a flight, resulting in one of the most coveted status symbols in the world.

 

THE BACKPACK by PRADA

Date: 1984, refined in 1987

Designer: Miuccia Prada

Introduction: Prada’s iconic backpack is the epitome of functional luxury.

Backstory: Crafted from industrial-weight nylon used for army tents, Prada juxtaposed modern industrial materials with artisanal craftsmanship, an approach that reshaped fashion.

 

LADY DIOR by DIOR

Shop: Christian Dior Ultra Matte My ABCDior Lady Dior Bag$6,765

Date: 1995

Designer: Gianfranco Ferré

Introduction: Initially called "Chouchou," it was later renamed in honor of Princess Diana, who famously carried the bag.

Backstory: A gift from France’s First Lady Bernadette Chirac to Princess Diana, the Lady Dior became synonymous with elegance and grace.

 

BAGUETTE by FENDI

Date: 1997

Designer: Silvia Venturini Fendi

Introduction: A small, rectangular bag, the Baguette's success was propelled by its appearance on *Sex and the City*.

Backstory: The Baguette’s unique, short shoulder strap design created a new attitude in fashion, cementing its place as a modern icon.

 

THE GRAFFITI BAG by LOUIS VUITTON

Date: 2000

Designer: Stephen Sprouse

Introduction: In 2000, Stephen Sprouse introduced a limited-edition collection of Louis Vuitton monogram bags adorned with bold graffiti motifs.

Backstory: Commissioned by Marc Jacobs, who described the bag's aesthetic as "anti-snob snobbism," it became an instant sensation, further popularized by Paris Hilton’s frequent use.

 

THE MURAKAMI BAG by LOUIS VUITTON

Shop: Louis Vuitton Speedy Handbag  - $1,710

Date: 2002

Designer: Takashi Murakami

Introduction: Murakami reinvented the classic LV monogram with 33 vibrant colors set against either black or white backgrounds, infusing the design with playful, cartoonish graphics. These rainbow-hued bags were carried by fashion icons like Paris Hilton and Beyoncé. 

Backstory: Marc Jacobs described his collaboration with Murakami as “a monumental marriage of art and commerce," resulting in a design that transcended mere accessory to become a cultural icon.

   

LUGGAGE TOTE BAG by CELINE

Date: 2009

Designer: Phoebe Philo

Introduction: Seen carried by the Olsen twins on the streets of New York, the angular Luggage Tote quickly sold out. With various sizes like Nano, Micro, Mini, and Phantom, it catered to every preference. 

Backstory: Under Phoebe Philo’s visionary direction, Céline became synonymous with high-fashion totes, with the Luggage Tote cementing its place as a global fashion must-have.

 

ALEXA by MULBERRY

Shop: Mini Alexa in Chalk$1,150

Date: 2009 

Designer: Emma Hill 

Introduction: The Alexa bag perfectly fuses elements of Mulberry’s Elkington briefcase with the simplicity of the Bayswater bag, resulting in a chic hybrid of handbag and briefcase. 

Backstory: Inspired by the preppy, hipster style of model and TV presenter Alexa Chung, this satchel-style bag became a symbol of effortless cool.

  

SAC DE JOUR by SAINT LAURENT

Date: 2013

Designer: Hedi Slimane 

Introduction: The Sac de Jour, French for "Bag of the Day," is often compared to a more youthful, modern version of the Hermès Birkin due to its tabs and accordion sides. 

Backstory: Released in 2013 as Hedi Slimane took the reins at Yves Saint Laurent, this bag became an enduring symbol of the brand's transformation under its new Saint Laurent identity.

 

DIONYSUS by GUCCI

Date: 2015

Designer: Alessandro Michele

Introduction: The Dionysus bag, featuring a textured structure and a tiger head closure, debuted in Gucci's Fall/Winter 2015 collection and quickly became a favorite.

Backstory: Inspired by the Greek god Dionysus, who is said to have crossed the Tigris River on a tiger, this bag encapsulates mythological elegance in modern form.

 

 

 

LOU LOU by YVES SAINT LAURENT

Shop: Saint Laurent Loulou Bag Quilted Suede Small$2,249

Date: 2017

Designer: Anthony Vaccarello

Introduction: Named after LouLou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent's longtime muse, the LouLou bag features quilted, padded leather and a functional yet stylish design.

Backstory: Upon its release, the LouLou bag captured a key trend with its puffy, padded leather and chain strap, quickly becoming a beloved YSL classic.

 

CASSETTE BAG by BOTTEGA VENETA

Shop: Bottega Veneta Cassette Crossbody Bag Maxi$1,215

Date: 2019

Designer: Daniel Lee 

Introduction: Daniel Lee debuted an exaggerated woven version of Bottega Veneta’s classic design, resulting in the now-iconic Cassette bag, with its distinctive puffed leather and triangular buckle.

Backstory: Lee’s arrival at Bottega Veneta transformed the brand’s aesthetic, with the Cassette bag earning widespread acclaim from fashion editors and celebrities alike.

 

THE POUCH by BOTTEGA VENETA

Date: 2019

Designer: Daniel Lee

Introduction: The oversized Pouch, crafted from smooth calf leather with intricate folds, became a sophisticated yet voluminous statement piece. 

Backstory: In an era of compact, crossbody bags, Daniel Lee’s creation of a strapless, oversized clutch stood out as a bold, rebellious choice, becoming Bottega Veneta’s fastest-selling item in history.

 

This collection of legendary handbags exemplifies the power of design in transforming fashion, creating pieces that transcend time and trends to become symbols of style and status. Find the most coveted and iconic designer brands and styles at Lolamir.com

Previous Next